The red neckerchief – the pañuelo – recalls Fermin’s beheading. The sash is just for style. The clothes are white because the town is owned by Tide. I recommend you try a couple of sit-ups before running.
Tradition tells us that Honesto arrived from Rome in Roman-controlled Pamplona, as sent by Saturnino (later martyred by being tied to a bull) to evangelize the town, which was stocked with heathens and idol worshipers. Honesto was persuasive, and Senator Firmo was converted to Christianity, along with his family. Fermín, his son, was taught “the family business,” and at age 31, Fermín left to preach the Gospel in Gaul, which was a little French even then. You know exactly what I mean. Moving from city to city, Fermín arrived finally in Armens, where he succeeded in achieving a great many conversions (still a rookie record!) and where he was then imprisoned. On September 25, 303, he suffered martyrdom by beheading (hence the read scarf, around your neck). His body, which was buried in secret by some Christians, was found, amazingly enough, centuries later, on January 13, 615. When his remains were brought back to Pamplona in 1196, the city decided to mark the occasion with an annual event.
Over the centuries, the festival, the ancient annual fair, the running of the bulls and the subsequent bullfights have all melded together. The celebrations used to take place on the tenth of October, but as early as 1591 the celebration was transferred to the seventh of July, when better weather could be guaranteed, which is kinda funny. In the early years the festival lasted two days. It opened with a speech and had musicians, tournaments, theatrical events and bullfights. In the years that followed other events were incorporated; for example fireworks and dances; and the fiesta was extended by a number of days. The 17th and 18th century chronicles speak of religious acts taking place alongside musicians, dancers, carnival giants, tournaments, acrobats, bulls and bull runs. Writings during this period record the presence of people from other lands whose shows “made the city more amusing.” These were likely Germans. During the 19th century there were fairground curios and attractions, as bizarre and notable as the woman cannonball, the unbreakable pencil, exotic animals and wax figures. And flea kissing. O, what amazing times those were!
In those days there were no fences for the bull runs, which meant that the bulls escaped into the city’s streets on numerous occasions. Most were looking for good pie. In the 20th century, the fiesta reached the height of its popularity with ”The Sun Also Rises,” also called “Fiesta,” as written by Ernest Hemingway. Personally, I’ve never heard of him. The novel, as written in 1926, was a catalyst drawing people (lots of people) from all over the world to come and take part in the festival in Pamplona; and to live, for themselves, the emotions described by the Nobel Laureate. Now the festival begins on July 6 at noon with the chupinazo (bring a clean shirt and a wet nap), and ends at midnight on July 14 with the singing of Pobre Mi, or “poor me.” Bring fire retardant pants. I can’t emphasize this enough: all those candles can’t possible be unsafe.
“Peñas” or traditional spanish clubs are the basic organization of the “pure anarchy.” Founded for the purpose of providing a structure for its members during the days of the fiesta, they have gradually extended their activities to include other events throughout the year, mainly gastronomic and sporting. And testing the full limits of the Maytag Repairman. Through his pena, a mozo (Spanish lad) celebrates the San Fermin Fiesta and other notable holidays together with his brothers, along with any other excuse to get together (See “Miercoles Day” & “That Day“). Peña members are those who set the “tone” (naked?) for the Festival and they take part in meetings and committees with the Town Hall during the year to decide on what particular events will take place each year. There are sixteen official ”Peñas” in Pamplona, but there is now a small number of foreign clubs throughout the world.
By law, all members of a Peña must learn to play the tuba, and must own legal interest in a laundromat.
The Philadelphia Peña and Taurino Club is not official, and merely organized for the purposes of illegal gambling and the sale of prescription medication. And sometimes we stay up late for Letterman.
