Here’s the list. Email any suggested additions. There is a PDF of the map with the location of each site here: PDF Hiking/Day Trip Map.
Table of Contents and Map Key
- Roncesvalles – Sorogain
- Roncesvalles – Ibañeta Pass
- Roncesvalles – Urkulu
- Roncesvalles –Garralda-Aria
- Roncesvalles – La Selva de Irati
- Estalla
- Reservoir Embalse de Irabia
- Monasterio de San Juan de la Peña
- Monasterio de San Salvador de Leyre.
- Sierra de Aralar
- Sierra de Aralar - The Green Route
- Sierra de Aralar - Mendukilo Caves
- Roncal Valley
- The Foz –Lumbier and Arbayun
- The Baztan Valley
- Burguete (Auritz)
- Fishing.
- Lesaka.
- Alloz Reservoir.
- Yesa Reservoir.
- Caves of Urdazubi/Urdax – in the town of Urdazubi/Urdax.
- The Cave of Zugarramurdi –
- Cascada de Xorroxin – waterfall (outside Erratzu)
- Jai Alai
- Beaches – San Sebastian
- Beaches — Hendaye / Hondarribia / Fuenterrabia
- Beaches – Biarritz
- Beaches – St. John de Luc
- Websites
- PDFs
Roncesvalles — Sorogain
Roncesvalles is our favorite hiking spot outside of Pamplona. 
Also known as Orreaga (or Valley of the Thorns) in Basque, Roncesvalles is famous for the legend and history of the defeat of Charlemagne and the death of Roland on August 15, 778, during the battle of Roncevaux Pass, when Charlemagne’s rear guard was destroyed by the Basque. It was romanticized in the epic poem “La Chanson de Roland.” The area oozes the Middle Ages, and thorns apparently.
Now, we use it for hiking and to escape the heat of Pamplona, just like Charlemagne. Also, Ronvesvalles is the annual winner of “Best Place to Destroy Your Rental Car.” Long story. Seriously, you will need the insurance.
Around Roncesvalles, there are many other options to lose or destroy your rental car during a hiking excursion.
Roncesvalles is a province of Navarra and east of Pamplona, and it’s found in the Aezcoa Valley. Less than an hour drive from Pamplona, it’s among the Pyrenees and only a couple of miles from the French border.
With forest trails, rivers, dolmens, meadows, beech and fir trees, mountains, a reservoir, old shepherd huts, hikes from Roncesvalles are amply outlined at http://www.roncesvalles.es/.
Our favorite hike is the “Sorogain” trail (off N135), which leads into the hills, where we have found ice from hail storms the night before, and very low temperatures, even when Pamplona is sweltering.
Often, you’ll find cattle, sheep, and other livestock wandering the hills with you. Basque shepherds we startle are always friendly, but appropriately amused by our huffing and puffing through the hills.
Roncesvalles – Ibañeta Pass
In the actual town of 
Roncesvalles, we visit the “Colegiata,” built by King Sancho VII el Fuerte (the Strong), which houses his giant tomb. Behind an iron grill, you can see a bit of the chain (b
roken by Sancho) that had been used to guard him in the Muslim chieftan’s tent.
Above the town is the famous Ibañeta Pass. A stone marker marks the spot of the legendary battle (aptly named the “Battle of Roncesvalles”) described in the French poem, La Chanson de Roland (The Song of Roland). In the poem, the Basque are portrayed as Muslim sympathizers, which could not be further from the truth – it was middle ages propaganda from the Catholic church.
In reality, after besieging and demolishing Pamplona, Charlemagne began carting ill-gotten booty (Muslim brides) north and home. The Basque declined to play ball, and Charlemagne destroyed parts of town. The rearguard of Charlemagne’s army was then decimated by the Basque in and around the Ibañeta Pass, while Roland (a knight and the commander of the rearguard), waited on blowing his horn and then threw his sword, named Durandal. The name of his horn may never be known.
Exploiting the story, the Catholic Church changed the Basque to Muslims, and started selling souvenirs along the camino. Wow, the Catholic Church’s first bake sale! Legends of Roland’s bravery were used to pump up the Norman troops at the Battle of Hastings. So, Western History in a nutshell: Edward, Harold, Williams, Normandy, Halley’s Comet, channel crossing, Hastings, arrow in the eye, and tapestry. Done, and done. All thanks to the Basque running of Roland. Oh, and mountains of Charlemagne’s gold were lost in the fog of battle, and have never been found.
From the back of the abbey, the hike to the pass is about an hour through beech forests. At the top you’ll find a bell used to guide Middle Age pilgrims through the fog. On the way back you’ll find – not unexpectedly – the abbey you left from. You can also drive up to the pass unless you left the emergency break off and your rental car careened down a hill into a tree and some Italian guys help you for dislodge it for about an hour. Then, your day is blown.
The Roland monument is located beside the Chapel of San Salvador, in the Ibañeta pass. The remains of the Roman triumph tower located in the Urkulu mountain illustrate the importance of this area as a natural way since the Middle Ages, or so says the book I read about it.
Roncesvalles – Urkulu
Roncesvalles –Garralda-Aria
Roncesvalles – La Selva de Irati
Estalla
Reservoir Embalse de Irabia. 
Down the road from the Fabrica de Orbaitzeta is a beautiful blue reservoir, with a circular trail all the way around. We found cows grazing around the water, and into trees and hills. How about a leisurely stroll around it? Well, we thought we’d die. But, during the fiesta, even the smallest walks can seem life threatening! Once we met a Frenchman on a bike on the trail looking for a bar (not kidding).
Monasterio de San Juan de la Peña.
About 1½ hours from Pamplona, and south of Jaca along N240, the Monasterio de San Juan de la Peña is along a side road near the village of Santa Cruz de la Seros. It’s known for its long name. An Aragón Monastery during the Middle Ages, the fortified buildings were used for “normal monastic activities” – whatever they are – and to wage war against invading Muslims. It is known as a “cradle” of Christian resistance during the 700-year occupation of Spain by the Moors. Farther north, you’ll find the “high chair,” “crib,” “car seat” and “big boy bed” of the Hare Krishna.
More famously, pilgrims on the Camino de Santiago visited to view the Holy Grail, which was moved from various sites in the region to hide it from the Moors, until later used in Indiana Jones 3.
Considered to be on the “balcony of the Pyrenees,” there are now many impressive hikes around the area.
There is an excellent website at http://www.monasteriosanjuan.com/.
Monasterio de San Salvador de Leyre.
Sierra de Aralar.
Aralar is a large mountain range, with springs, and meadows and groups of beech, oak and hazelnut trees. Cattle and horses roam freely, but there’s plenty of room for a nice hike or picnic. Or nap. But watch out for the patties, if you know what I mean. Since 2008, there’s been an influx of national funds to improve the roads and tourist services in the area. It’s a stunningly beautiful area which you could spend a lifetime exploring. At the top, you’ll find the Sanctuary of Aralar, which was robbed by the famous art thief Eric “The Belgian” in 1979. Nearby, Teodosi de Gozi killed a dragon after returning from the Crusades (who hasn’t?), and Charlemagne wandered through the area. So, they’ve got that going for them. The forests are seriously super spooky (a la Hansel and Gretel), and I wouldn’t be surprised to stumble on a dragon.
Sierra de Aralar — The Green Route.
The Plazaola Green Route is a hiking trail along an old railway line that connected Pamplona with San Sebastian. The Tourist Information Office is in the old train station in the town of Lekunberri. From the station, you can hike to the left or the right.
Nearby you’ll find the …
Restaurant Asador Epeleta on Calle Aralar S/N, Lekunberri, 31870. As discussed in “Places We Always Eat”, this is a Basque cider house, and you’re likely to have the best meal you’ve ever had here. Stun the kitchen and eat the steak for two by yourself.
Sierra de Aralar — Mendukilo Caves.
Near the town of Lukenberri (which apparently has no connection with Franken Berry or any of the other fine General Mills products), and northwest of Pamplona, this cave complex is located in the Sierra de Aralar and in the Valley of Larraun. An easy drive from Pamplona, tours begin at 11 a.m. during the fiesta season, but dress warm. I’m serious – it’s cold and damp. You must get there a little early for the astonishingly bad art-house film, complete with school room writing desks to rest your weary bones. And, it’s mandatory and simply and laughably awful. The tour is about 50 minutes, and the walk in the cave is long and hard, especially with a few days of Pamplona under your belt. Like the movie, the tour is in Spanish (we heard the terms “photosynthesis” and “muerte” and “mierda de murciélago” thrown in a lot), but the cave and the facilities are incredible. They even turn out the lights during the tour, so watch out for dragons and cave sheep. Website – mendukilo.com.
Roncal Valley.
Famous for its cheese, the valley (in the eastern edge of the Pyrenees) is nice for a drive through Burgui, Roncal, Urzainqui, and Isaba. On July 13, the valley mayors dress up and receive three (3) cows from their French counterparts. Much, much lesser known books by Hemingway focus on this “El Tributo de las Tres Vacas.” His ten (10) part series is known as “Diez Libros del Tributo de las Tres Vacas.” It’s part of his cow period.
The Foz. 
I know what you’re thinking. No, that’s the Fonz. This is the Foz. Actually, it’s two (2) foz. Fozes? Whatever. Located SE of Pamplona are two (2) gorges. They’re gorgeous. Alright, enough. The Foz de Lumbier and the Foz de Arbayun are right off N240, and about 1/2 hour from Pamplona. Both are worth the trip. At Lumbier, there is a small fee and hiking trail, including a walk through pitch black railway tunnels cut into the mountain. Along the path, there are actual “warning-danger” signs. Seriously, when the Basque warn of danger, take heed. There are vast wheat fields, wild flowers, a river, and about a billion nesting birds and hawks – and dark tunnels from the old train – along the trail, where Ari and I like to play “Communists vs. Anarchists vs. Fascists.” And, it’s great for a picnic. At Arbayun, the stop is more like a “scenic view.” There’s no organized hiking, but it’s really worth the few minute drive past Lumbier. We’ve never shimmied down the cliff.
Baztan Valley.
With small villages and tiny stone-and-mortar houses, this is almost strictly a Basque area. Look for mountains, and rounded green hills. Also, look for the handball court in every town, like a Mayan Juego de Pelota in the Yucatan Peninsula. You can dine at Galarza, at Calle Santiago 1 in Elizzondo. Tudela. Near this town, you will find a desert. It’s dry and barren, and very interesting. The dessert is very sweety.
Burguete (Auritz).
The party moved here in “The Sun Also Rises” for trout fishing and more whining and complaining. Most visitors check out the Hostal Burguete, which Hemingway made famous. Hikes to the Fabrica and Irati Rivers are in order, and both can, apparently, be used for beverage refrigeration. Across Euskal Herria, as the Basques call their mountainous region, is Burguete, a town that has long depended on tourists and is eager for more. There, the region’s association with Hemingway lives on. The novelist stopped at Burguete to fish for trout as part of his trip to the Feast of San Fermín in Pamplona in 1924. And Jake Barnes, the narrator of “The Sun Also Rises,” goes to Burguete with his friend Bill Gorton before the bullfights.
They stay at an inn about 3,000 feet above sea level. Though it’s late June, the low-ceilinged, oak paneled dining room is cold. Bill sits at a piano and plays to keep warm. ‘The girl brought in a big bowl of hot vegetable soup and the wine,’ Hemingway wrote. ‘We had fried trout afterward and some sort of stew and a big bowl full of wild strawberries.’
By that slender thread hangs the tourist trade of the Hostal Burguete, a converted farmhouse. It serves a hearty country soup and trout with ham. Imagine that: ham in Spain. Visitors can see a piano into which someone has carved ‘E. Heminway,’ with a date in 1923.
Fishing. 
The Irati flows from France to the dam situated under Oroz-Betelu, and there are fishing stretches all along the course until the vicinity of the dam. The river is divided in stretches of restricted access (“cotos”), free access stretches, (free for anglers bearing a license), and stretches where no fishing is allowed. Candidly, no one is looking for a license out in the forest, and no one has ever asked us for a license. We never fish in earnest (get it!), and are usually looking for an excuse to lay in the sun and sleep.
Lesaka.
Off N121, this town has a miniature San Fermín festival between July 6 and 14. Its people are regular sized.
Alloz Reservoir.
Do you like windsurfing or sailing? Neither do we. Do you fancy a refreshing plunge in the tranquil waters of a reservoir? Yes, but we don’t approve of the use of “fancy.”
The Alloz reservoir is twelve km to the north-east of Estella, between the towns of Yerri and Guesálaz. It’s fed by the river Salado and surrounded by Portuguese oaks, pasturelands, thickets and pines.
It’s the perfect spot for fishing, which is best at the tail end of the reservoir where you’ll mainly catch trout, barbel and carp. I know what you are thinking: what’s a barbel?
Another option is to take the track to Iturgoyen and climb up to the chapel of the Holy Trinity from where there is a wonderful view. You can also visit nearby Estella to discover a city brimming with history and artistic treasures, or the monastery of Iranzu in the midst of a beautiful natural setting.
Yesa Reservoir.
While I prefer the Nosa Estuary, the Yesa Reservoir is located at the foot of the Sierra de Leire, a huge green and blue stain, even further beautifying a landscape dominated by Portuguese oaks, beech and pine woods.
This area enjoys 90 more sunny days than Pamplona, a point they beat absolutely to death.
There are no signposted hiking trails, but it is a great place for walks along the shore and surrounding areas.
In the town of Yesa, visit the remains of the Roncaleses bridge over the river Aragon. It still has three of its five original Roman arches. There was a decisive battle here against Muslim armies at the beginning of the Reconquest.
Caves of Urdazubi/Urdax – in the town of Urdazubi/Urdax.
The Cave of Zugarramurdi
Cascada de Xorroxin – waterfall (outside Erratzu)
Jai Alai.
You can see (and wager upon? What are they betting on? Decapitation.) a “professional” game of jai alai at Frontón Euskal Jai Berri in Huarte, which is 6½ km to the northeast of Pamplona. Matches are held on Thursdays, Saturdays, and Sundays. For us, it has never – never – been convenient to see this for some reason, even though every year we swear we will make it. Maybe this year!
Beaches – San Sebastian
Beaches –Hendaye / Hondarribia / Fuenterrabia.
Are you really in need of getting away? Unlike San Sebastian, you seldom see even a Pamplona t-shirt in Hondarribia, or in Hendaye, France. Driving north from Pamplona, along N121, you come to Hondarribia (Fuenterrabia in Castilian Spanish) (maybe vice versa: we can never remember).
There’s the requisite medieval quarter, fishing district, painted boats, and a store to buy Rick Steve’s pants. More importantly, the beach is wide and sandy. You can drive 4 km north to Cabo Higuer, a cape with views of the French coast.
Even more importantly, a ferry leaves for Hendaye, France every fifteen (15) minutes or so. No need for a passport. Usually, it’s local families and children. We’re the attraction.
There’s a tourist office with maps at the ferry. Without so much as a passport check, you are deposited a short walk from another spectacular beach, but this time, in France.
Along the creatively named “Blvd. de la Mer,” you’ll find many places to eat, rent a surf board, jump on a trampoline, swimming pools, kayak rentals, and showers to clean up after a day on the beach.
In Hendaye, you’ll find the famous Serge Blanco Thalasso Center right past the ferry on the french side. It’s a thalassotherapy (and a steal for 2 hours at $22E).
Beaches – Biarritz
Beaches – St. John de Luc
Websites
http://www.campingsnavarra.com/english/index.php
http://www.roncesvalles.es/index.asp?lg=eng
http://www.monasteriosanjuan.com/
http://www.parquenaturalurbasa.com/
PDFS
Hiking – Birdwatching in Navarra (PDF)
Roncesvalles Area Hiking (PDF)
Roncesvalles Various Hiking Routes (PDF)
